30 December, 2015
XY is not a conformation, but a seamless flow between opposites. Max Tans’s Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection presents a concept not just simply of women in menswear, or men in frocks; it is a collection that reconstructs a boyfriend’s wardrobe, a state of gender neutralising.
The interpretation of the folds of pocket squares in men’s jackets, a tunic featuring asymmetrical folds and skirts incorporating origami elements. Geometrical draping and robe dressing form a collapsing silhouette for the collection, spliced-tailoring on centre-back and sides on traditionally masculine fabrication of will and felt, e.g. floating handkerchief cuts combined with strict shirts.
The inspiration for the collection is based on the concept of the sex determining chromosomes, X & Y. ‘XY’ chromosomes are genetically male, but also consists half the genetic make up of a female (XX). Thus, the collection is an exploration and neutralisation of the traditional notion of menswear and womenswear. As such, there is a blur of gender borders through fusion, deconstruction and reconstruction.